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This is where you stick random tidbits of information about yourself.
Age 23, living in sin in Twickenham with Cheesy
Likes
Movies
Books
Writing
Theatre
Hugs
Kittens
Chess
Scrabble (mostly beating Cheesy's butt)
Buffy The Vampire Slayer
Dislikes
Vegetables
Arguments
Cleaning
Trashy TV
Pretensions
Public Transport
Pets
Rabbits-Bambi, Fern, Sooty, Pippa-all deceased
Dog-Sammy-deceased :(
Fish-CatFlap-recently (and finally!) deceased
Cat-Tiggy-still scratching
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Technically Rachel
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Monday, September 18, 2006
Had a fairly lazy weekend. Saturday wasn’t too bad – I went shopping in the modern area of Marrakech. Realised that I am going to have to just behave like a Londoner. Walking around confidently and ignoring any greetings from men or groups of men. If you ignore them, they leave you alone. But even politely muttering “Ca va bien” in response has them literally turning around in their tracks and immediately hounding you, trying to get your email address or get you to agree to meet with you or go somewhere with them. So for once the London attitude has come in handy – it’s just a shame it has to be used. I have to remember though that if I were a man alone they would not be approaching me for a friendly chat at all. It’s all about the funny little English girl daring to wonder around on her own. The one time I sat still in one of many of Marrakech’s beautiful gardens within 5 minutes I had a young man come and sit next to me. This is more difficult – you’re not going anywhere and I hate being rude. In hindsight I should have just pretended not to speak any French, but part of me still keeps liking to believe that they are just being friendly and just want to make conversation with newcomers. However the opening question is always the same – are you alone? Are you here with a group (to which of course I immediately say yes). I lie and always say that I am married when they ask (around question number 6 I think). This invariably brings a sudden silence and an almost annoyed look – they usually look away, as if trying to think whether it is still worth conversing. Usually it is – after all, we Western women are not above partying with men who are not our husbands. In this particular case it leads to a series of questions about why my husband was not with me. Eventually I manage to leave as politely as possible – even having to insist I was happy to make my way to my hotel by myself and no he can’t have my email (there’s a bit of an obsession with that here).
Thing is, I never feel particularly threatened – none of them are stupid enough to get aggressive or move beyond polite conversation – there are tons of secret police in the city, and any signs of harassed tourists are strongly responded to. It’s just exhausting, and irritating because you know behind the polite conversation what their opinion of you is. At first I felt I was just being paranoid, but conversations with locals have made me realise that it isn’t about friendliness or interest in newcomers. And if it’s not about partying with the easy Western girl, it’s how to get money out of her. Like I said, if I was a man, they would not approach me.
So, as before I still feel dependant on other people to see the city – within a group the hassle I get is zero. I have learned that I can get by alone if I am in a busy area and I don’t basically stop anywhere where someone can corner me into being polite - which is a better place than I was in the other weekend.
I did manage to buy some clothes though and even haggled reasonably successfully in that the price was reduced – no doubt I was still paying over the odds, but I was proud I didn’t just submit to the first figure quoted. And the people in the shops are lovely. I should get across that my attitude about the boys on the street does not extend to the people of Marrakech as a whole. The people I work with here are wonderful and it’s brilliant being exposed to their lives and their culture. Their commitment to their faith is extraordinary – and while I don’t agree with it, it’s easy to see why Islam is as unbreakable as it is when its followers are so involved. Unlike Christianity it requires complete commitment and obedience to its laws – there is no middle ground.
Every city has its people who make it problematic and its people who make it wonderful – Marrakech is no different. The more I see of Morocco the more I appreciate and love – I just hope I regain enough confidence to see as much of it as possible. Am looking forward to more people coming out here. Cheeky Irish is going to be here from next week which will be really nice. Obviously at some point Cheesm will come out, and Fat Ass is already making plans for a long weekend. If anyone else fancies coming out for a stint, let me know – there’s plenty of room!
2:43 pm
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